As a grand re-entry into the blogosphere I would like to
express my support of the much overlooked detail of the gentleman’s wardrobe:
the pocket handkerchief. The pocket handkerchief displayed in the breast pocket
of the suit jacket or sport coat elevates the wardrobe. It can make a casual
outfit a little elegant and it can elevate the well turned out suit to stellar
levels.
There are a variety of handkerchief folds ideal for
display. Historically, I have held the opinion that a gentleman should disdain
the silk pocket squares and should only carry good quality linen handkerchiefs,
but I have changed that stance. There are a few rules, however, that should be
heeded:
Matching Ties and Handkerchiefs—This combination is more
than the title of a Monty Python album from the 80s. It is a fashion atrocity
that must be avoided at all costs. Whilst it may seem like a good idea at first
blush, it is not. It can make an otherwise elegant combination look cheesy. Opt
instead for a coordinating tie and handkerchief.
Silk Pocket Squares—I am still against plain silk pocket
squares, though that is admittedly a personal preference. I prefer non-silk
because silk does not fold crisply, but a flash of poufy color can be added
using these. Make sure that they are of suitable size, quality, and color.
Patterned Silk Pocket Squares—These, especially vintage
examples, are the foundation of my change of position on silk. Be sure to
select your patterns carefully so as not to clash with your neckwear. These are
best with more casual suits such as linen or poplin, and with blazers or sport
coats worn casually.
Hand Painted Silk Pocket Squares—Though quite trendy now,
I have yet to see a really good example of this art form. If you choose to go
this route, bear in mind that it is akin to the patterned pocket square and is
best reserved for more casual wear.
Linen Handkerchiefs—These are the absolute classics,
appropriate with the most formal of dinner or business dress or with casual
sport coats and blazers. A linen handkerchief will fold crisply and may be
pressed into shape, giving it an even cleaner look. Though a good cotton
handkerchief may be substituted, the texture of linen is distinctive and it
looks the best.
Vintage handkerchiefs of any variety are a great touch of
detail, but be sure when selecting vintage examples that there is no evidence
of yellowing or, worse yet, mold.