The Pocket Handkerchief

I have not attended this blog for far too long, but I plan to change that now.

As a grand re-entry into the blogosphere I would like to express my support of the much overlooked detail of the gentleman’s wardrobe: the pocket handkerchief. The pocket handkerchief displayed in the breast pocket of the suit jacket or sport coat elevates the wardrobe. It can make a casual outfit a little elegant and it can elevate the well turned out suit to stellar levels.

There are a variety of handkerchief folds ideal for display. Historically, I have held the opinion that a gentleman should disdain the silk pocket squares and should only carry good quality linen handkerchiefs, but I have changed that stance. There are a few rules, however, that should be heeded:

Matching Ties and Handkerchiefs—This combination is more than the title of a Monty Python album from the 80s. It is a fashion atrocity that must be avoided at all costs. Whilst it may seem like a good idea at first blush, it is not. It can make an otherwise elegant combination look cheesy. Opt instead for a coordinating tie and handkerchief.

Silk Pocket Squares—I am still against plain silk pocket squares, though that is admittedly a personal preference. I prefer non-silk because silk does not fold crisply, but a flash of poufy color can be added using these. Make sure that they are of suitable size, quality, and color.

Patterned Silk Pocket Squares—These, especially vintage examples, are the foundation of my change of position on silk. Be sure to select your patterns carefully so as not to clash with your neckwear. These are best with more casual suits such as linen or poplin, and with blazers or sport coats worn casually.

Hand Painted Silk Pocket Squares—Though quite trendy now, I have yet to see a really good example of this art form. If you choose to go this route, bear in mind that it is akin to the patterned pocket square and is best reserved for more casual wear.

Linen Handkerchiefs—These are the absolute classics, appropriate with the most formal of dinner or business dress or with casual sport coats and blazers. A linen handkerchief will fold crisply and may be pressed into shape, giving it an even cleaner look. Though a good cotton handkerchief may be substituted, the texture of linen is distinctive and it looks the best.

Vintage handkerchiefs of any variety are a great touch of detail, but be sure when selecting vintage examples that there is no evidence of yellowing or, worse yet, mold.

An outstanding selection of handkerchief folds is diagrammed at Bows ‘n Ties.

Decoding the Wedding Invitation

Spring has definitely sprung, and the season of the most infernal nuisance of the gentleman’s year has sprung upon with it: The Wedding Invitation. The influences on your decisions for what to wear are vast, including your relationship to the happy couple, the location of the event, your role in the wedding, and so forth. Herein I will offer some broad advice focusing on the instructions provided on the invitation – the rest is up to you.

Wedding invitations, and other party invitations, for that matter, will generally have a code included, indicating what you are expected to wear. And the date you should bring, but that is probably a topic for another blog.

The codes are as follows: Formal, Morning Dress, Black Tie, Black Tie Optional, Festive, and Casual. These codes include some valuable information, and, in some cases, some inherent misleading language. Here is a breakdown of what you need to wear.

Formal

In the go-go 21^st century, this is really quite rare. The term formal, in its correct usage, indicates that white tie and tails are preferred. The wedding party will certainly be in white tie, and, as a guest, it is appropriate for you to wear white tie too. Given that most of us, with the notable exception of my brother-in-law, Bill, do not own a full evening dress rig, it is far preferable for you to wear your good dinner suit instead. When wearing your dinner suit, however, wear it as conservatively as you possibly can – opt for a black bow tie and a black dinner vest. A white pique shirt also elevates it a notch. Military personnel are encouraged to wear mess dress.

Morning Dress

In the US you won’t see this much, but if you do, it is for a formal wedding scheduled before 6:00 pm. The appropriate formal rig for these events is a morning suit (a cutaway and striped trousers) or a lighter colored business suit. In the US in the current era, a crisp linen suit is perfectly acceptable if you do not have a cutaway or a stroller. Military personnel would wear class A uniforms appropriate to the region and the season.

Black Tie

This is the most formal wedding that most of us will ever be invited to. It indicates that the bridal party will likely be in dinner suits, and you are expected to wear one too. Again, go with the most traditional interpretation of what you wear with your tuxedo. Avoid colorful ties and cummerbunds, and stick with the traditional protocols. If you are going to be dancing the night away, be sure to wear shoes that will support you through that. Remember, when you dance, it is never appropriate to shed your jacket or your tie. Yes, they do it in the movies, and no, you still may not. It makes you look like a high school kid at the end of prom night. Again, mess dress is ideal for military personnel.

Black Tie Optional

This category is the bugaboo for many young men attending weddings. The invitation says that black tie is “optional”, so what is the issue with wearing a pair of clean jeans or khakis and a really sharp sport shirt? The issue is that the term “Black Tie Optional” is not-so-secret code for “dress decently, for God’s sake.” Literally it means that you would not be the least bit out of place if you wore your dinner suit. With this variant, however, you may choose to wear a tastefully patterned tie or cummerbund with it, or you may opt for a dark business suit. Or a blue blazer and a pair of dark gray flannel trousers are equally at home at black tie optional events. In any case, a tie of some sort is not optional, nor is a sport coat, at the very least. If you have made the investment in a dinner suit, take this opportunity to wear it – it is certainly the rig that you look the best in. If you do not own one, wear your #1 suit and tie. Once more, mess dress is acceptable here, but a class A uniform will do equally well for military personnel.

Festive/Casual

OK, now we are really into vague areas. The reason this is such a minefield of choices is that the definitions of the words “festive” and “casual” vary so much between users. Also, you cannot rely on your solid old dinner suit for these events, you actually have to think about it and make some choices.

• Consider where the event will be held: Is it at the beach? Or at the horse park?
• Consider the event’s theme: Is it an equestrian theme? Or a country or Hawai’ian theme?
• Consider the time of day: Evening events at the beach will likely require a warm layer that you can add later on.

For a lakeside wedding a few years ago I sported a vintage dinner jacket with a slightly rumpled pleated front shirt with a pair of well faded khakis. I accessorized with a straw boater and a navy blue Churchill dot bow, and looked, frankly, spectacular. If you are attending an island themed affair, a fresh and crisp Aloha shirt is in order with well pressed linen trousers. 

The secret to carrying off the festive or casual looks well is to remember that you are going to someone’s special affair, so look your best. “Casual” is not the same “casual” that you wear to the poolside barbecue in your own back yard. With no guests. No holes in pants, no matter how fashionable the Brass Ring employee told you they were, and no tee shirts with slogans on them are acceptable. In fact, no tee shirts at all. Consider how George Clooney carries casual off – a well-fitted navy blue suit with a plain point collar shirt, opened a couple of buttons. That is casual for the martini set, and it looks so very good. For a casual wedding military personnel should probably forgo a uniform in favor of smart civilian clothes in the spirit of the event.

In Short

The surest way to get through a wedding is to simply follow the rules. Bear in mind, you are the guest of the bride at what may very well be the most important day of her life. Dress in a manner that she will find the most pleasing, and you will do fine.

Accessorizing With Leather

Leather accessories – we all have them. The main ones are belts, wallets, watch straps and shoes. Common wisdom and the rule of thumb states that all your leather should match, and that is correct about 70% of the time. So, if you are wearing brown shoes to go with your Donnegal tweed suit, match it up with a brown belt, wallet and watch strap. Simple.

What we really need to consider are those 30% that are exceptions to this rule.

In the spring and summer when you are wearing white flannels, white twills, white poplin or sailcloth slacks or seersucker, you will want to wear your white bucks. White suede belts, however, have no place in a gentleman's wardrobe. White fabric belts may be worn with trousers of exactly the same shade of white as the belt only. Hard white trousers with a hard white belt work because the belt becomes, essentially, invisible. White belts are never, ever, worn under other circumstances. Better than white belts are woolen twill belts or whimsically embroidered d-ring belts, all great for summer wear. In circumstances like this you will likely wear a sport watch with a metal band or a fabric band which may be coordinated with your belt. Coordinating your wallet with the other leathers is a very elegant touch, but not necessary. When wearing fabric alternatives to leather, a plain brown or black leather wallet is perfectly appropriate.

Another example of the 30% where the rule does not work perfectly: In the current era, black and navy slacks are often worn with brown shoes to excellent effect. I really enjoy this look as a more casual application of trousers that are typically perceived as dressier. The rule of thumb would dictate that with the brown shoes or boots, a brown belt should be worn, but that is not always the best. With black slacks, for example, a light or medium brown belt puts a stripe at the gentleman's midriff, which is not always the most flattering look. A dark brown belt may blend with the fabric colors better, but if that is not an option, break the rule and wear a black belt with the brown shoes.

In short, use the rule as you see fit. Matching leathers coordinates an outfit well, and gives a sense of finish to it, but it absolutely not a hard-and-fast rule. Keep it in mind, but break this one at will.

The Norwegian Fisherman’s Sweater

This sweater is one of the icons of L.L. Bean, and I am pleased to announce that they have recently returned it to their catalogue. Here in California, there are only a few months wherein this is useful, but it is the best warm sweater when it is nippy outside.

In classic navy blue with a white bird's-eye weave, this sweater pairs well with just about any trousers that you will ever own. Wide wale corduroys, tweeds, flannels and khakis all work well with this one. A sport shirt, a dress shirt or a turtleneck are all perfect contenders underneath. A necktie or no – both equally appropriate. The short version is that outside the tennis sweater, this is the most valuable sweater that a gentleman can own. They are not cheap, but they are excellent investments. They wear beautifully and they look as good when they are "worn in" a bit as when they are new. If you inherit one from your pop or a sibling, it is that much better than a new one.

Now that they are available through L.L. Bean again, they are fairly modestly priced at $129. If you get them from other sources they may be had for slightly less to about $50 more. Again, an excellent investment in the wardrobe and if you are going to limit yourself to two sweaters, make this one the second.

The Tennis Sweater

Whilst it is a convenient skill to have for when we are invited to the country club, tennis is not an absolute requirement for young gentlemen. The tennis sweater, on the other hand, is.

In the U. S. these are normally called tennis sweaters, though in the U. K. they are normally referred to as cricket jumpers. They are made of cotton or wool, they are usually cable knit, they are invariably V-necked, and they have a band of color or colors highlighting the neck and the cuffs. They may be white or cream color in the body, and, while the long sleeved version is the most useful, they are sometimes available as vests and, more rarely, as cardigans.

The basic wardrobe requirement is for the basic long sleeved pull over model. Under a blue blazer and with a long necktie or a bow, it adds and elegant layer. Best of all, and the real reason that this is an indispensible wardrobe piece, this is the only sweater that really looks well with shorts. Cream or white may be paired with white shorts at the country club or shipboard, or they may be paired equally well with khaki shorts. Naturally, it pairs perfectly with white flannels or with khakis.

This is both the most formal of sweaters and it has the potential to be quite casual as well. In New England and the northern climes sweater collections are normal, but out here in sunny California we generally don't have so many. If you are going to limit yourself to a single sweater, make it a good tennis sweater.

Jewelry

We buy it for the ladies in our lives. Some of us cultivate an appreciation of the good stuff, but it is the domain of the ladies. Except when it is not.

The Rules

Men should wear jewelry sparsely, if at all. Make your jewelry selections exquisite and meaningful. Here are a few items of appropriate gentlemen's jewelry:

• Wedding Ring – Always appropriate. The ideal selection is a rich, dark gold band, unadorned by detailing: simple, classic, elegant. In that form, it is truly timeless. Unless your beloved insists on it, there is really no need to have matching rings with your spouse – that which makes a lovely ring for a lady does not necessarily work for a gentleman, and understatement is the best route for a man. That said, my own wedding ring is an Irish style claddagh in silver.
  
• Military Decorations – Do not succumb to the temptation to wear miniature medals on dress clothes, but boutonnière representations of significant medals are always appropriate.
  
• Cuff Links – Another place where men may wear the bling. Cuff links are no longer reserved for the most formal of occasions and they may dress up an otherwise casual outfit for an evening on the town. Again, keep selections fairly simple and classic. Toggle links with chain connectors are beautifully understated as are simple silk knots. Another thing not to be missed are the vast quantities of antique cuff links available for a song on eBay.
• Tie Clasps and Tie Tacs - Some current style gurus have stated that these decorations are antiquated and make current clothes look dated. My personal belief is that whilst they are a bit old style, on an otherwise current and elegant rig they still look classic and elegant. Though this is going to be a bit of a mantra, old is better than new, so use whatever it is that Dad or Gramps left you.
  
• Signet Rings – A single signet ring on the ring finger of the right hand is beautiful and appropriate. Normally engraved with a classic monogram, these are fantastic accessories. If a club ring is worn, this is the piece of jewelry that will go.
  
• Fraternal and Club Jewelry – This comes most commonly as rings but also in the form of tie-clasps and tacs, lapel pins and cuff links. It is easy to get carried away with club jewelry, especially in organizations like the Masonic Lodge where there are numerous subsequent lodges, each of which has its own traditions and symbols. The rule of thumb is to keep your organizational jewelry to a single piece. One outfit, one club – that is all. I have seen some grand old Masons who have rings on every finger and thumb, tie tacs, cuff links and multiple lapel pins. They end up looking very wrong. Choose your club jewelry carefully and keep it simple.
  
• Belt Buckle – Sometimes called a compression buckle, these go on 1" belts, sometimes called straps. The belt does not have holes in it, and the buckle is invariably sterling silver and is quietly engraved with the owner's initials. Or his father's. Or grandfather's. These buckles are getting harder to find, but they will likely have them at the best jewelry store in town or at the better quality men's stores. I am fond of the Reed & Barton engine turned model. This is part jewelry and part a simple requirement for gentlemen's clothing. You will likely have one for your whole life, so do not skimp.
  
• Wristwatches – Like cuff links, wristwatches can end up as a major collectible for gentlemen who are so inclined. Unless you are collecting wrist watches, however, these do not need to be expensive. If your dad or grandpa gave you one, it may be ideal. Old Hamiltons and Elgins are great as are vintage Timexes. Mechanical examples are generally better choices than electric, and stay away from digital at all costs. For a dress watch, a simple and slim example in gold is ideal. For sportier wear you can go with something a bit chunkier, but do not overdo it. An old Rolex oyster is great. Unless you are a marine biologist, a Submariner may be a bit too much.
  
• Fountain Pens – Completely unnecessary, fountain pens, whether new or antique, are great jewelry for gentlemen. Carried in the shirt pocket or the inside pocket of the jacket, these are definitively understated. I have an old Parker blue diamond 51 and a big, black senior Duofold that I love for their understatement.
  
• Pocket Knives – Again, carry just one, and grandpa's carbon steel model that he carried in the Great War is ideal.
  

Some other options are things like old pocket watches and fobs. Just about anything that came down from your grandpa or a great uncle is an elegant touch. Do not overdo it, and be sure to wear whatever it is that you are wearing correctly. Pocket watches go in vests, not in the breast pocket of your suit jacket a la Gomez Addams.


 
A few things to avoid:

• Heavy Gold Chains – Unless you are Tony Soprano or a Greek investment tycoon, avoid the gold chains.
  
• Ear Rings
  
• Anything Else That Requires a Piercing
  
• A Gargantuan Belt Buckle – Unless you won it legitimately, stay away from gigantic trophy style buckles, even on jeans. If you did come by it legitimately, put it on a really fine and appropriately wide belt and keep it for jeans.
  

In Short

There are many types of jewelry for gents, just keep it understated and tasteful. Old is generally better than new, and family heirlooms are the best.

The Dinner Suit

I have been promising a post on formal wear for some time, but it covers so much range that it is nearly due a blog of its own. I have found it a bit daunting. I have decided to break it up a bit, and I am beginning with what is, for most of us, the most useful and the least formal of formal wear: The Dinner Suit.

History

The dinner suit dates to England of 1860 when the Prince of Wales, later Edward VII of England, the most "fun" king of the modern era, had a bespoke smoking jacket made for him that would be more comfortable to wear at a dinner table than the traditional tailcoat. "Lounge suits" were becoming quite fashionable for day wear in that era – the prince was seeking an evening version of that comfortable wear.

Soon thereafter, the Dinner Jacket leapt the pond and became the rage at the Tuxedo Park Club in New York, earning it the American moniker, "Tuxedo."

Elements

You might notice that I periodically refer to the teen-aged employees at the mall formal-wear store with some contempt. This is only because I hold those stores in utter contempt. They need to sell new stuff every season, and, in truth, a good dinner suit is timeless. The only time that you need a new element is when the old one is worn out or destroyed. Bow-ties change a bit in size periodically, though less so now than they did in the 70's and 80's, but, beyond that, there is nothing new under the sun. You can get the best quality pieces that you can afford, and they will be in fashion in twenty years.

Whether referring to a Dinner Jacket, a Dinner Suit or a Tuxedo, they are all the same thing. The dinner suit should be black, though midnight blue examples are seen. It consists of a dinner jacket and a pair of formal trousers. It is worn with a waistcoat or a cummerbund, a formal shirt and a bow-tie. Footwear may range from a pair of highly polished black dress shoes all the way to the most formal of evening footwear, the opera pump. If headwear is worn with a dinner suit, it may be a black Homburg, Tribly, Fedora or, in the summertime, a straw boater. Top hats are a bit too formal for dinner suits.

The Dinner Jacket

This is the defining element of the Dinner Suit. If you have only one, it should be black and of a good quality woolen suiting. The lapels are normally faced in black satin or grosgrain silk and the shank buttons are often covered in the same fabric as the lapels. Sometimes you will find dinner jackets with black plastic buttons, and that is acceptable as well.

A black Dinner Jacket is acceptable year-round in any region. If you travel to tropical climes, however, you may wish to equip yourself with a white or off-white dinner jacket as well. This may be made of linen, but if you stick to a lightweight worsted wool you will find that it will keep its shape better, especially in humid, warm environments, than the linen versions. The cut of the white dinner jacket is identical to the black version, but the lapels are often not faced in silks. Contrary to what the mall-store employee will tell you, you do not need to match white shirts to the off-white dinner jacket. The layered white-on-white look is very traditional, and handsome.

The cut of the dinner jackets may be single or double-breasted, and it may have one or two buttons, though one is only ever buttoned. The lapels may be peaked, notched or shawl style. There are as many opinions on the best or most correct form that the dinner jacket should take as there are gentlemen, and you will certainly develop your own tastes in these things. Because of its roots in the smoking jacket tradition, I prefer shawl lapels over the other options. Because the dinner jacket spends as much time open as it does buttoned, I prefer a single-breasted, single button version. When I have done master-of-ceremonies work, however, I prefer a 2-on-1 double breasted version.

Formal Trousers

Formal trousers have a clean, sleek line from the waist to the hem. Often they are a bit higher waisted than your dress slacks, and they invariably lack belt-loops. They are held in place by braces. Avoid the type with the adjustable waist-band as these just scream "rental". Again contradicting the mall-store wisdom, they may or may not have narrow stripes down each leg, often matching your lapel facings on your black dinner jacket, much in the manner of military uniform trousers. These stripes became popular during World War I when military fashion was seeping into civilian styles as well, but there is no necessity for stripes on your trousers.

Dark tartan trousers are an acceptable alternative, especially around the holidays. These are best if the tartan has some ties to your family, but a Black Watch tartan may be worn by anyone. Whilst it may be tempting for our highland brethren to wear a kilt with a dinner jacket, that temptation should be denied. If you are going to wear a kilt, you should go with full highland wear including an appropriate jacket, and that is all a discussion for another day.

Braces or suspenders are worn to keep the trousers in place. Most traditionally they are black silk, though they may be any color or pattern that the wearer chooses. If you are wearing a white or off-white dinner jacket, however, you should wear braces that are the same color as your shirt, as dark braces may show through the jacket in some lighting.

Waistcoat or Cummerbund

Around the middle, a waistcoat or cummerbund is worn. Each is equally traditional, but if you have an antique watch fob or chain that you wish to display, you may prefer the waistcoat.

Waistcoat

The waistcoat or vest for a dinner suit is most traditionally black and either of a black fabric matching the trousers and the body of the dinner jacket, or it may be made of the fabric of the lapel facings. It normally will have lapels and will be very low cut. Avoid backless faux-vests as, again, these scream "I am wearing a rental suit" as nothing else will.

Less traditionally, but equally acceptable in most settings, colorful vests in a formal cut are a way to personalize your dinner suit. These may or may not match your bow-tie. If you are wearing a colorful vest that does not have a matching bow, be sure that you restrain yourself to a traditional black tie.

Cummerbund

The cummerbund is a sort of faux-sash worn about the belly as an alternative to the waistcoat. It normally has several pleats and is of a fabric to match your lapel facings and your bow-tie. They fasten in the back with a small buckle. Again, these may be worn in interesting colors or patterns and, if so, your cummerbund should match your bow-tie.

Shirt

The formal shirt is white cotton. It may have a pleated front, a plain front or, atypically, a stiff front as worn with white tie.

The collar on your formal shirt should be the turn-down type as found on your dress shirts. Prior to World War II, formal shirts generally had plain collar bands, and winged collars were starched and put on separately. In imitation of this look, after the war many formal shirt producers started manufacturing formal shirts with attached winged collars.

Tie

The traditional neck-wear with a dinner suit is a black bow-tie of the same material as the lapel facings on your black dinner jacket. This is the correct neck-wear, and, if you are invited to a formal event that is not on the lawn, stick to the traditional black.

Additionally, learn to tie a bow. It is a very simple procedure that may be learned online from sites such as Tie-a-tie.net or Ben Silver, among others. A genuine bow always looks appropriate whereas a pre-tied bow looks as if you do not care.

Since the 1960s, colorful and patterned bow-ties have become popular with dinner suits. If you feel the urge, try to resist it. If it is overwhelming, be very careful in your selection of ties. The rule of thumb is, if you are in any doubt whatsoever, go with the black tie. With black, you cannot go wrong.

You may have noticed in various Hollywood functions in recent years that Windsor knotted ties are becoming popular. Again, resist this temptation. The bow-tie is definitive of the dinner suit. Remove the bow-tie and you are left with a black business suit.

Footwear

The most traditional, formal footwear to wear with a dinner suit is the black patent leather opera pump or court shoe. These are thin soled and look a bit like ladies' ballet flats. They have grosgrain bows on the toes. As long as you are not hiking or dancing a great deal, they are actually quite comfortable. They are also mind-bogglingly expensive for shoes that you may wear three times per year. An alternative to the opera pump is a simple black patent lace-up oxford shoe, but, again, it is a special investment for a shoe that will not get that much wear. If you have a good quality pair of black oxfords, as you should, put a high polish on them and wear those with your dinner suit. They are perfectly appropriate and you will certainly get more use out of them in the long run.

An alternative to shoes, if he is entertaining in his own home, a gentleman may wear black velvet Albert slipper with a toe monogram. Again, terribly expensive, but oh, so stylish.

The stockings worn are most traditionally black sheer silk and they are held up with suspenders or garters. If you are wearing opera pumps or Albert slippers, you should definitely get the silk hose. Otherwise, opt for a sheer, black over-the-calf stocking.

Accessories

There are many accessories for dinner suits, but be selective.

• Studs and Links. Your formal shirt will require cuff links and studs to fasten the front. Traditionally formal shirts require three studs, though stud sets come in sets of four. Many modern shirts do require four studs - if not you have a handy extra for the one that you will surely lose. On dinner suits, black onyx studs are traditional, but white mother-of-pearl is also acceptable. Furthermore, if you have a pair of tasteful cuff links that you would like to wear,  it is perfectly acceptable to wear links that do not match your studs. For formal studs and links, my personal preference is for vintage models, readily available from eBay.
• Watches. Your wristwatch should be slim and elegant or eschewed altogether. If you have an antique fob or chain that you wish to wear, you may wear a pocket watch. Generally speaking, you are not at formal events to watch the clock, so a watch is completely optional.
  
• Handkerchiefs. A white linen handkerchief. As mentioned elsewhere, silk and cotton pocket squares are out there, but the best choice is white linen.
  
• Boutonnière. A cornflower, rosebud or carnation may be worn in the lapel if a buttonhole is provided. Your florist will want to "gild the lily" by tying it up with all sorts of extra vegetation, but that is wrong. You want the simple flower, and nothing else. Gardenias are often worn in France, but never with a pocket handkerchief.
  
• Topcoats. Your topcoat should be black or dark gray. A velvet collar is an acceptable touch, though not necessary. If gloves are worn, they should be gray leather – white kid is strictly for white tie. If a scarf is worn, white silk is the most traditional.
  
• Hat. Again, if a hat is worn, the most traditional is the black homburg. In the summer, a straw boater with a black grosgrain ribbon is best. Top hats are wrong with dinner suits.
  

In Short

The dinner suit is a wonderful thing to have in the wardrobe. It may be worn to dinner parties or to dinner dates at the good restaurant. It is a brilliantly contrived garment that makes every man look tall and slim. The design, whilst it looks good on the wearer, is truly focused on making the ladies whom we escort look their best. We are not the peacocks, we are the quiet, dashing gentlemen that our beautiful ladies are with. The best off-the-rack dinner suits that I have ever owned were from Cable Car Clothiers in San Francisco, California. They still carry some of the finest formal-wear in the United States, and I recommend them highly. They are not, however, truly an Internet presence even today, and their formal wear is not on their website the last I looked.

Bespoke vs. Made-to-Measure

I have encountered a good deal of confusion from readers who have questions regarding what is "bespoke" or "tailor-made" clothing and how it differs from "made-to-measure" clothing.

Unlike many tailors, I find that there is tremendous use for both. Especially if you are, as I am, a size that is difficult to find on store racks. Made-to-measure clothing may get you a slightly better fit and, more importantly, a better selection of fabric/style combinations than might be available to you in the mainstream market. The sizing and fit is essentially that which is available off the rack, but rather than trusting the sizing information from company A or company B to be true to size, you provide the makers with your dimensions, and the garments fit.

Made-to-measure

Made-to-measure services are great for garments that do not need to have a close and perfect fit, such as topcoats, jeans and shirts, or garments that you are comfortable with a less than ideal fit, such as your #3 blue blazer. I am still searching for a made-to-measure provider that will make me a blue denim shirt with a spread collar and French cuffs!

The limiting factor in made-to-measure clothing is that you generally have to provide your measurements to the maker, and you and the maker need to be speaking the same language when you communicate those measurements to him/her. The first time that I ordered khakis from a Southeast Asian made-to-measure provider, I received two pair of beautifully made trousers that would not fit any creature born of woman. This was not the fault of the maker in any way – the garments were made with the exact dimensions that I had provided, but the expertise in taking those measurements was lacking. I now generally prefer to take my measurements from a well-fitting garment that I own rather than try to take (or have a friend take) my measurements.

I love made-to-measure dress shirts. They are not much more, if any more, expensive than good quality off-the-rack shirts, and I can get what I really want.

Here are a few great providers of made-to-measure clothing:

• Nordstrom
  – It is true. The great mall-giant also offers made-to-measure services in their gentlemen's clothing department. Price is more than the Nordstrom off-the-rack offerings, but it is in line with their over-all product line. Good for sport coats, dress trousers and suits.
  
• Brooks Brothers – Also true. That icon of American men's clothing will make you their famous shirts to your specific dimensions for a price not much different from their offerings on their shelves. The quality is the same and the fit is all yours.
  
• Makeyourownjeans.com – Huh? This is an offshore maker of jeans and casual shirts. They will replicate your favorite trousers for you as well. Shirt styles tend to be trendier than what we, as young but impoverished gentlemen, are seeking, but this is a good source for decent quality blue jeans.
  
• Bookster – Beautiful tweeds from the British Isles and from Europe. Cuts of jackets and suits in a slightly antiquated British taste. You can see these being worn with Coke hats on Derby Day.
  
• Paul Fredrick – For dress shirts only. Paul Fredrick used to be the manufacturer of dress shirts for a number of the best department stores to sell under their own labels, and they may still be. The catalogue at Paul Fredrick offers a great selection of very nice quality dress shirts and their made-to-measure area offers even more. This is the first made-to-measure service that I ever used and it remains among my favorites.
  
• Magnoli Clothiers – A touch on the cheesy side, but they make replicas of many of the clothes that you have seen in the movies. They are probably best known for their suit that replicates the light grey rig that James Bond wore in Goldfinger.
  
• Liste Rouge Paris – OK, you want to feel a bit like a million bucks? It can be done, but it ain't cheap. Liste Rouge is a premium made-to-measure operation where your whim is their command. They use the most premium of fabrics to create shirts as art. This is not the shirt that you are going to retire to gardening after a couple of years of heavy wear. Worth it? Perhaps, though by the time you are spending this kind of dough on a shirt you might just want to take the trip to Paris and get a truly custom shirt.
  

There are numerous others on the Internet. Be mindful to which countries you are sending your financial information. Check reviews of each provider before ordering, and be aware that the unscrupulous ones may post their own reviews. Use your common sense guided by your experience.

Bespoke

This is the topic of numerous books and blogs. You will find tons of information on the Internet about it. Bespoke clothing is what we in America call tailor-made clothing, though the term "bespoke" implies a bit more.

To find this, your first task is to find a tailor, something that in the 21^st century is becoming more and more difficult. When in London, pay a visit to Anderson & Sheppard, makers of suits to the crowned heads of Europe and Hollywood. Though, if you live in a city of some age and substance, you are sure to find a good quality local tailor in your own town.

Bespoke clothing is made of the fabric that you desire. You want a braided pinstripe? Yes, sir. You want an antiquated cut? Perhaps an Edwardian cut to compliment your, may I say, spectacular figure? Of course, sir.

For your money you get an expert in the clothing making business to take your measurements for you. Whilst he is taking your measurements, he will also be asking you questions about your tastes: what you like and what you dislike. Do you really want an English cut suit, or would something a touch more relaxed fit your manner of living a bit more. He is getting to know you. "Only my tailor knows" is a truism for a reason – your tailor is someone who you talk to and who really learns your tastes better than just about anyone else. He will show you a selection of fabrics on hand, and may be able to order you something that is not in the shop. He will tell you honestly that you should not wear cuffs on your slacks because your legs are proportionately short, and cuffs will make them look stumpier. He will tell you frankly that you are too plump to wear double breasted suits. His business is honesty, and he knows what looks right. He will assist in the selection of colors and fabrics and will recommend shoes. And socks. And, possibly, undergarments.

He may make a mock-up of your first suit with him in muslin. He will certainly make an appointment for you once he gets the suit cut and put together. You will then go in for a fitting – at this point the suit will have chalk marks and loose seams and will look nothing like the suit you ordered, but the tailor will make a few more marks and pin a few seams and look thoughtfully at the lapels and send you on your way.

When you go in for your final fitting, you will don your new rig, look at yourself in the mirror and be stunned. There is truly nothing like a good tailor made suit to make you look your very best.

If you are fit and have the wallet for it, bespoke clothing especially suits and formal clothes are what are to be aspired to. For your information: The bottom of Anderson & Sheppard's suit line will run you around £3000. At today's exchange rate, that comes to around $4600. $4600 very well spent.

Pocket Squares vs. Handkerchiefs

I realize that in many people's view, I am a bit conservative in my clothing selections, but that is the nature of a gentleman's wardrobe, so I make no apology for it. The fact is that most of the clothing on this blog is fairly timeless – with minor variation it would have been in place in 1935, it is in place today, and it will be in place in a hundred years. By building a wardrobe in this manner, a young gentleman who builds his wardrobe carefully and with consideration will be able to wear his gray flannels thirty years from now, and he will be perfectly at home.

Today, however, I must apologize because I am going to "kick it old school" for awhile.

What do you put in the breast pocket of your suit? Many elegant and conservative stores sell little eight inch squares of silk in a variety of colors to tuck there. Some even manufacture pocket squares that match neckties. Personally, I think that all this is quite silly. The most elegant thing that a gentleman can tuck into his jacket pocket is a neatly pressed and folded white linen handkerchief. Choose a hemmed or corded edge, whichever you prefer, though the corded edge is a bit more formal. What the color is of your suit, jacket or necktie is irrelevant: your handkerchief is white. Despite the fact that it is being used as a fashion accessory, your handkerchief is fully functional.

And this brings me to my next point: Carry a handkerchief or two. While I will argue that the handkerchief in your breast pocket should be linen, that is a fairly high expense for a pocket handkerchief, so if linen is out of the question, go for a good quality rolled cotton. Take the time to press it and fold it and keep it in the weak-hand pocket of your trousers. Nothing else goes in that pocket, just your handkerchief. If you are wearing Bills Khakis, or other trousers with similarly deep pockets, go ahead and carry two. If you need to use it, a handkerchief is far more elegant than Kleenex, but it is imperative that you produce only a clean handkerchief. A hard used rag, whilst useful in private, may be offensive to others.

Perhaps most importantly, especially at weddings and funerals, is the ability to offer a clean and pressed handkerchief to a young lady. Many of us tend to become incredibly uncomfortable when faced with a crying lady – a clean and elegant handkerchief offers us a comfortable gesture that we may engage. You will find that it is generally graciously accepted, and it makes for a kind and old-fashioned gesture that is well appreciated.

As far as availability goes, I am very fond of the product carried by Brooks Brothers, but it is not cheap at $60 for a three-pack. I do like Irish linens the best, but that is prejudice on my part – there are excellent linens available from mainland Europe and elsewhere. Check eBay for bargains – you may often find vintage products in new condition there. Make sure that they are not yellowing, and you are good to go. If you like monograms on your handkerchiefs, keep them white on white, and make sure that you fold your handkerchiefs in such a way that the monogram is entirely hidden.

Tying the Knot

Calm down. Take some slow, deep breaths. I am talking about neckties.

I called your attention to the Tie-a-Tie website the other day. This leads me to the discussion of neckties and knots.

There are a number of necktie knots, some of which fall in and out of favor. I am limiting my discussion to three basic knots that I find to be of the greatest use, and the bow-tie knot. Given my habitual lack of illustration, I will not attempt to describe the creation of these knots here, but I will refer you to the excellent Tie-a-Tie site.

The Four-in-hand Knot: I view this as the 40s/50s style knot. Frankly, it was the only knot that my dear old dad ever wore when he wore long ties. He was more of a bow-tie kind of guy, on the whole. The Four-in-hand is a simple, smallish, slightly asymmetrical knot most suitable for the least formal of neckties and with button-down collars or long pointed collars with narrow space at the neck. With ties made of exceptionally course materials, such as mohair, woolen or silk knit ties, this is probably the best choice of knot. Generally speaking, this is the least formal of necktie knots and is suitable for the most casual of settings in which one might wear a tie.

The Windsor Knot: This is the extreme opposite of the Four-in-hand: it is the most formal of long tie knots. Do not think of it so much as tying a knot as building a knot. Take your time to get everything just right, and you will be rewarded with a vast and well-sculpted knot. Worn with spread collars, this is the knot that you see Tony Blair and the Duke of Edinburgh wearing. The knot projects confidence. It takes a good deal of material to build a Windsor knot, so if you are very tall or a bit corpulent you may need to consider going to an extra-long tie for this one. When wearing a tie-tack or clip you have the option of shortening the narrow end of the tie a bit, allowing you to get away with tying a Windsor in a slightly short tie.

The Half-Windsor Knot: This one falls somewhere between the other two. It is a bit smaller than the Windsor, but it is larger and more symmetrical than the Four-in-hand. Personally, except with the very heaviest of necktie materials like the knit ties discussed above, I prefer this knot for most casual and semi-formal wear. It is suitable with a button-down collar, a plain point or with a modest spread collar. For the really broad spread collar varieties, the Windsor is really de rigeur.

There are a number of additional knots that are suitable to differing situations. Tie-a-tie discusses one called a Pratt Knott that seems quite similar to a half-Windsor when executed. Another great resource site for ties and knots is Ben Silver. Here you will find a grand selection of really fine and expensive neckwear as well as a great tying guide offering options such as the Prince Albert, the Small Knot and the Cross Knot as well as advice on tying ascots and bows.

The Bow Tie: As I said, my dad was a bow tie kind of guy. In the 1980s bow ties made something of a resurgence, and then they seemed to disappear again in the 90s. My old dad, however, started wearing them in the 30s, and he never stopped. A bow tie expresses a degree of non-conformity with a sense of classic style. My personal tendency is not to wear them to job interviews, but I have no compunction about wearing them everywhere else. The reason Dad liked them was because he did not have to worry about them flopping about when he was working. I like them because they are cool. Bow ties may be worn with button-down collars, plain point and, possibly, the narrowest of spread collars. Anything wider however will require a Windsor. When called upon to don a tuxedo, despite the request for a "black" tie on the invitation, you may now elegantly wear a bow of just about any color you choose. Do not follow the trend of the Hollywoodies and forsake the bow for a long tie – no matter what the silly little fashionistas like to say, it is not correct. Whether for formal or more casual wear, stay away from extremes in your selection of bows: never go with the uber-wide C. Everett Koop/Orville Redenbacher varieties, but stick with a modest width. The British call the ones with the plain rectangular ends "bat-wings" because they are shaped rather like cricket bats, and I think that these look the best when tied. Nearly as good, and a bit easier to tie for beginners, is the Slimline or Standard tie which has a dip in the middle. The term "butterfly" is tempting, but avoid it as it generally connotes a very wide bow.

Bow ties do seem to be making another comeback, and there are some great sites devoted to them. My personal favorite is Beau Ties Ltd., but they may be found at any gentleman's store that deals in classic men's goods.

Ascots: I must admit that for certain wear and in certain settings, I love ascots. Unfortunately Hugh Hefner and Tony Curtis have kind of ruined these for the rest of us, and they can seem like the punch-lines of fairly bad jokes. Frankly, you should probably be over 50 before you start wearing these, and then you need to be prudent in how you wear them. If you have your own sloop of not less than thirty feet, then you may get away with an ascot no matter what your age. If you are part of the cruise crowd, make sure that you are sailing on one of the better lines. On Carnival, ascots are always out of place, on Crystal, there may be a time and a place for one.

Tie-a-tie

I will go into the various necktie knots in a later post, but I want to call readers' attention to this wonderful website: Tie-a-tie.net. As an old Scout, I am fairly proficient with knots, but I still struggle when I am trying to sculpt a perfect Windsor at 6:15 in the morning. This site provides videos and clear instructions for most of the major knots and guidance for their use.

Flannel

The cool weather is obviously having an effect on my clothing preferences of late. We are actually experiencing a bit of winter in our normally balmy Northern California, so my mind turns to warmer clothes.

And what could be warmer or more comforting than flannel?

Flannel comes in two basic varieties: wool and cotton.

Wool flannel is the stuff of your best dress suits, trousers and blazers. It is also what the best Pendleton™ shirts are made of. There is much to recommend wool flannel shirts – most notably, if a young gentleman spends a good deal of time out of doors in the cold months, wool will keep him warm when sodden wet. Additionally, good quality wool will keep its crisp appearance through much hard wear. No matter how well worn your wool flannel Pendleton gets, however, it will never be something that you want to rub your face against – it is not "comfort" clothing.

Cotton flannel is what I really want to discuss here. It comes in various weights from quite light, suitable for mild Californian autumns and springs, to thick "chamois cloth" weights, which make good layers in mid-winter. It is used to line jeans and khakis and to make shirts. These are not business shirts. No, these are shirts that warm the flesh and the soul. A well washed and thick cotton flannel shirt is like wearing the softest blanket from your bassinet. Like Linus, you will take your security blanket with you everywhere. The heaviest cotton flannels will never offer the same degree of insulation as wool flannels, but they are far more suitable for indoor wear and for layering over tee-shirts and turtlenecks. A well cut flannel shirt can go under a tweed or corduroy sport coat, it can go under any sort of parka, or it may be worn as a medium-weight outer layer on its own.

The best cut flannel shirts offer two breast pockets, often pleated, but not always. Knife pleats on each side of the back are best, but they may have no pleats at all – the additional volume afforded by pleats makes layering over heavy undergarments somewhat easier. Look for good long tails as they serve not only to keep the shirt tucked in whilst you are cutting wood or driving the sleigh, but they also offer welcome insulation to your bum.

Where to find them? The old stand-by, L. L. Bean still carries them, as does their west-coast counterpart, Eddie Bauer, but in recent years I have found the offerings at Cabela's to be of better quality. Also, Cabela's offers them in a wider selection of colors and they offer embroidery to personalize the shirts a bit.

Malone Pants

I am taking something of a departure here. The weather in our balmy Northern California climes has taken a turn for the cool. Tomorrow the weatherman is predicting sleet. Sleet! In Northern California!

This is one of the rare times when I wish I still had a pair of Malone Pants. Malone Pants are one of the less-than-basic alternatives that it  behooves a gentleman to own. The fabric is a tremendously thick woolen flannel. And it is not refined flannel. Think lumberjacks, jacking lumber in the forests of the Yukon. These pants are heavy. But, like so many articles of men's clothing that were developed in the nineteenth century, they are also dashing. Traditionally they are in a dark Oxford grey color with a faint red and green windowpane check. Because they are woolen, they will not only keep you warm after fording a river to get to grandmama's house, but they will continue to look dashing once they dry. And, if on the sleigh-ride home with Miss Fanny Bright you happen to get caught in a drifted bank, you will be able to loan the only blanket in the vehicle to her whilst you dig your way out in relative comfort.

In truth, Malone Pants, though we only wear them a few times a year in this region, are invaluable wardrobe additions. Woolrich makes a fine example, and L.L. Bean carries them under their own label too, but they call them Main Guide Wool Pants. With a Pendleton wool shirt, you are ready to go Christmas tree hunting in these babies, and throw on a blue blazer and you are ready for Midnight Mass. In the winter these are truly not replaceable by any other garment that I know of.

The Denim Discussion

Denim. We had to talk about it eventually.

Invented in France as a rugged, utility material, died with cheap indigo dye, it was the stuff of working class trousers, hardy and coarse. As it happened, the exact combination that they hit on was a moment of ingenious synchronicity – the fabric, whilst coarse, washes wonderfully and, as it ages it becomes wonderfully soft. The indigo dye, starts as a harsh dark blue, but, as it washes it also softens, taking on its own character, eventually to an ever paling sky blue and, finally, it turns almost white. In the latter half of the twentieth century we found that denim and washing machines are made for one another. And, if you fold denim trousers right out of the dryer, you don't even have to iron them.

But denim is more than merely convenient: it is poetic. A soft, old pair of pale blue jeans are as at home in the Rocky Mountains as a pair of khakis on the Serengeti. They speak of broad, blue skies and poetry in the forest. They are romantic.

So why do so many old school pundits of gentlemen's wardrobe still disdain jeans as belonging to those who mow our lawns, but are certainly not gentlemen? It is because of denim's working-class roots. Unlike khakis, denim did not have the Ernest Hemingways and William Buckleys of the world acting as full-time spokesmodels. Denim was included in Hollywood's reinvention of the Wild West and was worn by the likes of Roy Rogers and John Wayne in their hundred year re-conquest of the open prairie. Denim was tough and working-class, but it was not elegant.

And then the eighties came along, rescuing us from the polyester decade of the seventies and introduced the denim shirt. I am not talking about the denim work shirt or the denim western shirt, but, rather, the finished denim button-down, and it became the blue blazer of the modern age. It could be worn with a tweed sport coat, corduroy trousers and a coarsely woven necktie, and it was at home in the Ivy League classroom or the elegant chophouse. With sleeves rolled and the collar open, it can easily pair with Bermuda shorts on the beach. It is truly an all-purpose shirt. Given its resilience and resistance to wrinkles, it is the perfect travel companion. And its softness next to your skin will lend you strength at the interview for the Big Job as well. The wait staff at Les Halles in New York City wears denim shirts with spread collars and French cuffs – I have coveted these ever since I first saw them, but have never been able to find one.

All of this makes us think that, perhaps, we should reevaluate the ever present blue jeans.

In my opinion, the blue jeans are a perfectly acceptable casual addition to the gentleman's wardrobe, certainly west of the Mississippi. You need to be aware of the characteristics of various denim trousers, however, and make your selections carefully.

First of all, for most of us, Wranglers are completely inappropriate. If you spend a good deal of time in the saddle of a horse, either for work or play, then Wranglers are the blue jeans of choice, and you should wear them. They are very tight in the buttocks and the thighs for the purpose of avoiding uncomfortable wrinkles between you and your saddle. For those of us who do not ride in jeans, however, they are just trampy. It is like a lovely, busty maid squeezing into a tube-top: It puts everything on display, but not to the beset advantage. And, to make things worse, every country-bar dwelling pretend cowpoke dons the Wranglers in order to give himself some cowboy cred. It doesn't work.

Most so-called designer brands are also wrong for men. They are means of advertising your net worth on your bum, and, as dad had it, if you have to tell me that you are rich, you are not. Some designer brands, Ralph Lauren and Façonnable to name two, are excellent in their design. They are also startlingly expensive. L.L. Bean still carries excellent house-brand jeans, and the website, MakeYourOwnJeans.com, offers designs that will suit every taste.

In selecting your blue jeans, remember the Aristotelian rule of thumb: Avoid extremes. You neither want your jeans to be too tight, nor too loose. Not too new, nor too old. On young girls, holes in the knees can be quite enticing, but never on gentlemen's jeans. Because I am cut a bit like a box, my blue jeans of choice are Levi's 505s. They are similar in cut to the classic 501s, but they have zippers in lieu of the button flies. I find that the button holes on the current breed of 501s are wearing out just about the time that the jeans are getting good, whereas the brass zippers of the 505s last a few lifetimes.

Once you have selected your jeans, wear them well, but not inappropriately. Wearing rugged jeans with a dinner jacket or a sport coat was creative and naughty in 1981, now it is back to being inappropriate. They pair well with sport shirts or tee shirts. With a crisp button-down they will take you to lunch at Ahwahnee, but break out the well pressed khakis and a blue blazer for dinner.

In short, every gentleman should have a dark denim dress shirt in his wardrobe. Blue jeans are less necessary, but they do make a nice alternative to khakis periodically. Just remember to be cognicent of the design and quality of your denim, and it will serve you well for years to come.

Shirts in Colors

For the bulk of the nineteenth century, a gentleman's dress shirt was white. Colors and patterns in shirts were the domain of the working man, something to brighten his life of browns and tans. The gay nineties changed many traditions of the Victorian era, and by the end of the century, gentlemen's dress shirts were available in stripes and patterns of tremendous variety. Innovation continued through the 1920s, and then, with the onslaught of the depression, as with so many things, innovation ceased.

But that is alright. The thirty-five years of shirt creativity left gentlemen with a wide variety of colors and patterns. There are any number of stripes and colors available to the modern gentleman that are perfectly acceptable.

For the most formal of wear, with the navy braided pinstripe or the Oxford grey chalk-stripe, you will want to stick with white shirts. White-on-white patterned shirts may be worn with the most formal suits, and they make subtle and elegant statements. Be aware of the pattern of your suiting and the necktie that you choose when opting for white-on-white patterns, as they can contribute to the busyness of the overall presentation.

Striped shirts of many hues are extremely handsome, but they are best worn with solid color suits, as opposed to striped suits. Striped shirts also play well with chinos and solid colored slacks excellently, as they do with blue blazers. They lend dash, style and elegance to your "intermediate" wardrobe – that which falls between an open collar and khakis and the formal suit.

Down the ladder of formality from the white-on-white and the striped shirts is a selection of pastel colored shirts. Most traditionally made of Oxford cloth and with button down collars, in pale blue, yellow and pink these are staples of the wardrobe. Again, they go excellently with khakis and blue blazers or solid blue suits. These can even be used to dress down a more formal suit. They work well with a variety of neckties. Beyond the most traditional colors, just about any pastel such as peach or apricot, pale greens and a variety of light blues work excellently. For the past twenty years a darker shade of blue, usually called French blue, has become fundamental – it is excellent and, like the white-on-white shirt, it tends to lend a bit of elegance to an otherwise more casual ensemble. Do not go darker in tone than the French blue – navy, burgundy and black shirt are great at the bowling alley, but not in the form of a dress shirt.

While colored shirts are most traditional in the U.S. with button down collars, they are perfectly appropriate with plain point or spread collars as well. Most traditionally they have plain barrel cuffs, though they are excellent with French cuffs as well when worn with non-button down collars.

In the spring and summer months, white collars and cuffs are acceptable on pastel and striped body shirts – especially with seersucker, poplin and pincord suits and, of course, with blue blazers.

The White Shirt

Fundamental to the gentleman's wardrobe is the white shirt. What I am discussing here is not the formal evening shirt, but the basic, everyday white dress shirt, which, incidentally, is perfectly acceptable as an evening shirt, but that discussion will be had later.

The most basic and least dressy of the white shirt wardrobe is the button down or polo collar shirt. Introduced by Brooks Brothers in 1896 as the polo collar, this shirt will take you anywhere. Starched and worn with a half-Windsor knotted necktie or a bowtie, this shirt is ready for the most formal of boardroom settings. Similarly it will take you with equal ease to any dinner that does not call for formal wear. On the other hand, in slightly rumpled condition with the sleeves rolled, the same button down will take you to the beach with your khakis or Bermuda shorts. Paired with a pair of clean jeans, and you are ready for a day in the country. Pressed with slacks it is ideal for business casual. Truly, if there is any single garment that will take you truly anywhere, it is the button down shirt.

Most traditionally, these shirts are made from a coarsely woven cotton fabric called Oxford cloth, and, as a result, they are often referred to as Oxford Cloth Shirts, or, more simply, as Oxfords. Ironically, and, in my view, rather sadly, true Oxford is getting harder and harder to come by. It seems to have been supplanted by the more modern and more refined Pinpoint Oxford fabric, which is a lovely fabric – my fondness of the coarser, older-style fabric is purely sentimental.

Collar discussions aside, the dress shirt has the following characteristics:

• Long sleeves – No matter what the Macy's display tells you, there is no such thing as a short sleeved dress shirt.
  
• Centered box pleat – This lends to the voluminous body of the shirt. Alternatively, if you have your shirts made, you may opt for two knife pleats on each side of the back. When you have a box pleat, look for a locker loop – it is more of a fashion statement than a useful accessory, but it looks very finished and traditional – kind of like a luggage rack on an MGA.
  
• Breast pocket – Typically found on the wearer's left shirt front. This pocket may have rounded corners on the bottom or angled corners to match the choice on the cuff. Harder to find now, but very nice, is a flapped pocket. This look used to be the signature of L.L. Bean, back when Bean was cool. The total absence of a breast pocket lends to a clean and elegant look, but you lose the convenience of the pocket.
  
• Cuffs – Plain, barrel cuffs with a single button closure, and a second button, called the gauntlet button, a couple of inches up the sleeve placket. This type of cuff is perfectly acceptable anywhere where you wear a dress shirt. More formally, French cuffs give the wearer an opportunity to wear cufflinks in a day to day environment, but because of the formality of the French cuffs, they are not considered appropriate with button down collars.
  
• Monograms – Monograms are perfectly acceptable on dress shirts, but keep them understated and well hidden. Plain block initials, about ¼" on the left cuff or the pocket is very traditional. If you keep them in navy blue, they will go with anything you own. As long as the monogram is appropriately small, you can have your monograms in bright colors too. Unusual placement of the monogram is fine, as long as it is out of the way. Beneath the breast pocket is a great location, or centered on the breast pocket. I have seen them centered over the box pleat in back, but that seems a wee bit proud.
  
• A voluminous cut – Unless you are very thin or exceptionally broad-shouldered with a small waist, you do not want trim cut shirts. The volume of the shirt is part of its luxury.
  

Collar Options

As mentioned earlier, a button down collar is among the most versatile of collar options on a gentleman's shirt. It is an American innovation, originally to keep the polo players' collars from flapping in their faces without wearing collar pins – this was back in the days when polo was played in jackets and ties! When you wear a button down collar, you should always keep the points buttoned, whether you are wearing a tie or not. In addition to the button down collar, there are several other collar options available which are equally appropriate:

• Spread collar – The spread collar has many names and, short of a formal shirt, it is the most formal of dress shirt collars. It is the appropriate collar to wear with a large, well built full Windsor knot. Other names that you will find spread collars called are Windsor collars, Venetian collars, Eton collars, Varsity collars, etc. Some you will find are sculpted, some are straight cut, some are a wider spread, some less so, but a wide spread collar of whichever style you prefer is great for this niche.
  
• Plain point collar – The spread collar is, in fact, a variant of the plain point collar. The plain point collar, again, you will find under a number of names, and it is as basic as the button down. If you do not like buttoning your collar points, you may opt for the plain point collar and be equally appropriate. The plain point collar is a tiny bit more formal than a button down, though it can be dressed down equally. It is not quite a sporty as the button down, but it is more traditionally a European choice.
  
• Pin collars – These were the predecessors of the button down. They have small eyelets in the collar through which to place a collar pin. Avoid these – if you want to wear a collar pin, use the type that does not require that you have a hole in your collar.
  
• Tab collars – Very elegant, though slightly dated, tab collars, fastened either with a button or a snap keeps your collar trim and in a more erect position. These are the best for wearing four-in-hand knots with.
  
• Round points – These are available with or without collar pins and/or tabs. Again, they are a bit dated, but if you like to wear white flannels or seersucker suits, you may want one in your wardrobe.
  
• Hidden button down – This is the newest innovation in the dress shirt scene. It gives you the advantages of a button down collar without looking like a button down collar. Personally, I have no use for this, though it is perfectly acceptable.
  
• Banded collars – These have the plain collar band where you would attach an old-fashioned detachable collar, but no collar attached. These are fine for very casual wear, but they are not truly dress shirts.
  

Cuff Options

As mentioned before, the plain barrel cuff is the traditional cuff on a dress shirt. The barrel cuff may be made with rounded corners, square corners or mitered corners, generally made to match the cut of the pocket, if the shirt has a breast pocket. Similarly you will find that French, or turn-back, cuffs generally have the same options. A slightly old-fashioned look with French cuffs may also include some sculpting on the cuff. To my eye, the most formal look for French cuffs is the plain, square cut.

The Need for a Formal Shirt

Contrary to what the teenager at the tuxedo rental shop will try to tell you, a neatly pressed and well presented white dress shirt is perfectly appropriate for evening wear. Even when wearing a dinner suit, a tuxedo in American parlance, or a white dinner jacket. A dress shirt is not appropriate with full evening dress, or white tie, but it is perfect with anything short of that. A bowtie may be worn with most plain point collars, but not with the extreme spread collars. If you are wearing a dress shirt for evening wear, avoid wearing the button down – this is the one place where the button down is not at home. Button cuffs are fine here, but French cuffs are better. I will go into formal shirts in a later post, and the options available.

In Short

White dress shirts will take you through every activity of your life. They are your friends. If you get good ones, they will wash down and they will get better with age – they will pass from being your dressiest shirts to your workhorse shirts; then from your workhorse shirts to your beachcombing shirts. From there, they will become your Saturday morning lawn mowing shirts, and, when your wife tells you it is time for that shirt to the ragbag, you will be hard pressed to part with it! Choose your shirts well and do not be afraid to spend some money on the good ones – they will be with you longer than some friends.